Wednesday, March 12, 2014

March 12, 2014: Hail The Surf Gods!

365 Project, Day 172
Here is my day 172 submission to my 365Project:

This morning was my second attempt ever trying to surf at a point break on Vancouver Island. I have been a few times to Tofino where us beginners typically ride in the wash of the beach break waves but this would be only my second time at a point break. 

It was a gorgeous morning and I was excited to try to ride a wave here again. Unfortunately, shortly after my first attempt to catch a wave (and promptly bailing, but it was fun anyways cuz I love being in the water!) I wasn't feeling well (must've eaten something off, yikes!) so had to head back to shore. After drying off and putting all my gear away I took advantage of the time and beautiful morning light to take photos of the surf and surfers in action. 

Just before we were heading to the truck I got this picture of Chris holding his surf board over his head as the shafts of light came cascading down through the forest around him...and I think it turned into a really cool shot. Looks a bit like he's hailing the surf gods :)


Hail The Surf Gods!


One of Vancouver Island's beautiful surf spots in the early morning sunshine

Way out the surfers hanging around in the 'line up' waiting to catch their next wave

More early morning gorgeous light shining down on the beach

Catching a wave

Swell rollin' in


Firsts in action...you can just see a surfer at the base of the wave

Time to think about duck diving!

Surf's up!

Love this wave...especially the wind blowing the spray back off the top!

Long boarder planning to paddle out

Nice!



Paddle, paddle, paddle!!





Hail The Surf Gods part deux!

One of the busier surf spots in action on the west coast!






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